It's OK for intellectual feminists to like fashion

Blog title from Hadley Freeman's book The Meaning of Sunglasses : "Prada styles itself as the label it's OK for intellectual feminists to like".

The author is a bilingual fashion editor, writer and translator with a serious blog, cinema and magazine habit.

Twitter @FashionAbecedai

Email: fashionmemex(at)gmail.com

Keira Knightley’s dress in Last Night

To celebrate Keira Knightley’s wedding, l decided to revisit her style in Last Night, one of my favourite films featuring her.

Focused on love and desire, on marriage and temptation, Last Night raises the question of what is worse: physical or emotional cheating?

Knightley is married to Sam Worthington, her university sweetheart. Over the course of a night apart, she reconnects with her French ex Guillaume Canet while Worthington doesn’t fight his attraction for Eva Mendes much.

Although she starts the movie in a simple black trousers-oversize jumper-on white vest combo before moving on to casual track pants, the attire Hollywood thinks all freelance magazine writers wear, the real wardrobe star is Knightley’s navy blue dress worn on her date night with Canet. 

Considering that three quarters of the movie play out in this dress, costume designer Ann Roth must have spent quite a bit of time sourcing or designing it. 

The dress is first introduced in a classic Hollywood getting ready scene, one that’s not too different from the makeover trope, considering Knightley’s move from casual to evening style.

Adjusting her bra, putting on a touch of Touche Eclat, Knightley’s character doesn’t just don a dress; she abandons the self-confidence and physical comfort she displays with her husband. She’s both excited and uneasy with the idea of meeting up with her ex and this pivotal scene suggests they might have unfinished business.

In an interview with Interview magazine, director Massy Tadjedin describes the dress choices as “participatory”. Knightley’s is as different from Mendes’ as their respective body shapes and character personalities. 

A while back, ELLE UK published a feature about the perception of women based on their curves. It opposed Mendes’ and Knightley’s chest sizes as Hollywood examples of the other woman and the wife, as an evidence of how women are stereotyped based on their silhouettes. 

The dresses mirror these prejudices. Knightley’s falls below the knees, with a ribbon belt and a small décolleté whereas Mendes wears a wrap dress. Tadjedin explains that

You know if you’ve ever worn a wrap dress, you sort of have to be conscious of when it’s opening when you’re walking, when the cleavage is getting too low, when the belt needs to be tightened—you’re always engaged with it. And also for a lot of women, like me, it requires a slip under it, and if you’re worried about too much of the space between your legs being evident, if the sun hits it at the wrong angle…

Knightley’s dress isn’t just a clothing choice, it’s an argument on her character’s hypocrisy. 

For Tadjedin, Mendes is the character who really owns up to her morals whereas Knightley, despite an earlier fit of jealousy at her husband and a demure dress, stops short of sleeping with another man but doesn’t consider any of their emotional connection cheating. 

Posted at 10:33am and tagged with: Classy film, dress, keira knightley, cinema,.

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* Please note this article contains potential spoilers for series 2 of The Hour.

“And this is my wife”. Camille Mettier (Lizzie Brocheré), French wife of journalist, TV anchor and general show hero Freddie Lyon (Ben Whishaw) is introduced at the end of the first episode of series 2 of The Hour, the Abi Morgan miniseries on the behind-the-scenes of a 1950s TV show.

The clues were there but they only fall into place at the last minute, leaving the viewers as shocked and saddened as Bel Rowley (Romola Garai), Lyon’s British producer, best friend and love interest.

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The season (and possibly the show) is now over, yet Mettier’s role is still unclear. Trouble-maker for viewers meant to root for a Lyon/Rowley happy ending, Mettier is young, pretty and very Nouvelle Vague meets Beatnik. She has a Jean Seberg crop, swears in French when angry, says “oui” rather than “yes”, “can’t help flirting”, rarely wears pants and always wears her husband’s jumpers and shirts. When she goes out, it’s always in black: black turtleneck, little black dress, black coat. 

Mettier is the cliché Anglo-Saxon take on the gamine and androgynous French woman,  in sharp contrast with the British woman exemplified by Rowley, who lives for her story and her career.

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Although both characters are typecast late 1950s women, their contrasting personalities filter through their fashion and beauty choices: Mettier’s loose, dark clothes to Rowley’s colourful, nipped-in suits, her dark crop to her wavy blond hair.

Both are women of their time, exercising their gender’s newfound freedom their own ways: Mettier sitting at home reading books and planning the next revolution and anti-nuclear war protest with her leftist friends is merely a study on how only Rowley, who understands and shares Lyon’s ambition and life goals, is best suited for him.


Posted at 7:59am and tagged with: Mad Men, TV series, bbc two, france, Classy film,.

On time for the 50th anniversary of the Cuban missile crisis, Sally Potter directs the story of two teenage girls whose world is standing still and being blown apart in parallel with what could happen with the A-bomb threatening the world.

“We had a dream that we’d always be best friends” writes Ginger (Elle Fanning) in the poem closing the movie (and opening the trailer). Seventeen-year-old Ginger and Rosa (Alice Englert) were born together, grew up together without strong father figures, go to the same school and are convinced they want the same things until Khrushchev threatens to set up Soviet missiles in Cuba. Theirs is a friendship born of background similarities and the force of habits, a symbiotic friendship where you spend so much time together you start forgetting about the differences inherent to personality, the kind of friendship you cling to during that weird end of teenagehood stage of being neither a child, nor an adult.

The first half of the movie sets the strength of Ginger and Rosa’s relationship through always-matching clothes: green wool jumpers and khaki trousers to go to the seaside, off-white turtle neck sweaters for anti-nuclear marches, a symphony of duffle coats and same length, unkempt hair. Identical outfits are the background for traditional coming-of-age movie tropes: bathing in jeans to shrink them, smoking your first cigarette and kissing your first boy wearing a school uniform.

With radio news unraveling the 13 days of the Crisis, cracks start appearing between the two teenagers. Ginger’s father Roland (Alessandro Nivola) and his ideals of free-will and self-determinism act as a catalyst. While Ginger, motivated by fear and the betrayal of the budding affair between Roland and Rosa, focuses on saving the world and her ambition to become a poet, Rosa decides to follow Girl magazine’s advice not to be too serious if you want boys to like you. Identical clothes aren’t enough to mask differences anymore.

The first outward sign of disagreement appears when Rosa tries on an oversize black shirt paired with her shrunken jeans, an outfit which wouldn’t be out of place on the streets of London nowadays. “The whole world could be blown to pieces any minute” fears Ginger, but it’s her little world which is about to be torn apart.

From then on, Rosa’s palette turns away from the earthy tones worn during her time with Ginger, her time of innocence, adopting instead an all-black, body-con silhouette closer to the femme fatale and grown-up she wants to be. Closer too to the outfit Ginger’s mum Natalie (Christina Hendricks) wears around her estranged husband Roland. Eighteen years before, Natalie had fallen for Roland’s wounded artist ways, a courtship resulting in Ginger and years of unrequited love and unhappiness. The fashion and hair styling similarities between the two women don’t bode well for Rosa’s future with Roland.

Posted at 5:27pm and tagged with: Classy film,.

A famous woman escaping her world of obligations into the arms of a young, good-looking, poor man living on a hill overseeing everything representing what she’s fled, unsuspecting of her real identity until she’s forced to go back. The story has been told multiple times but I’m always stricken by the similarities between Baz Luhrmann’s Chanel 5 advert with Nicole Kidman and Rodrigo Santoro and the beginning of the love story between Jasmine and Aladdin.

Posted at 1:26pm and tagged with: compare and contrast, Classy film, Disney, chanel,.

“Once is an accident. Twice is coincidence. Three times is an enemy action” wrote Ian Fleming in Goldfinger. Or if it’s fashion rather than Cold War, three is a trend. As it approaches its 25th birthday, Dirty Dancing hit and final scene soundtrack Time of my Life has been trending on the screens, big and small, becoming shorthand for seduction and great love stories. It has reached trope status in romantic comedies as a turning point scene for plots and characters.

The scene is so ingrained in pop culture the viewer is bound to know it (even if, like me, this is the only thing s/he’s seen of the original movie). S/he projects his/her own feelings and take on it. It acts as a blank canvas, strengthened by the role the song has played in his/her own life and assists in the identification of the viewer with the characters reenacting the dance.

1- The accident: Glee (2010)

The early days of Glee saw the cast reenact many American classics. Considering 2010 was in the midst of a 1980s revival, Time of my Life was particularly well timed. It adds seriousness to the Sam-Quinn relationship while hinting to the difficulties they’ve met and happier times ahead. That’s the advantage of a classic song: the background is so strong and well-known it can tell more than a dialogue, even if the rendering verges on appalling.

2- The coincidence: L’Arnacoeur (Heartbreaker)(2010)

In French hit romantic comedy Heartbreaker, Romain Duris breaks up couples for a living by convincing women they’re better off single or with a different partner. His latest job is oenologist Vanessa Paradis, an heiress with an immoderate love of Dirty Dancing. The 1980s film becomes a thread unfolding common interests, real and assumed, culminating in a rendition of the dance scene in an Italian restaurant with both actors wearing clothes updated from the original movie. It reveals what we all knew: they’re in love.

3- The trend: Crazy, Stupid Love (2011)

The Dirty Dancing reference in Crazy, Stupid Love follows a similar aim: showing that the serial dater who never falls in love can, in fact, fall in love. Ryan Gosling introduces the dance as his ultimate move to get girls into bed, which seduces an already willing but very sarcastic Emma Stone. The filming was apparently less romantic, with Stone suffering from a panic attack and a double replacing her during the scene.

Posted at 7:07am and tagged with: Classy film, TV series,.

Angélique Delange (Isabelle Carré), the female lead in French romantic comedy Romantics Anonymous (Les Emotifs Anonymes) lives through the film in a single almond green double-breasted belted Cacharel coat accessorised with a complementary bright red checked scarf. The outfit is shorthand for her personality: the pale, mousy exterior of a timid and her warm, engaging personality shining through.

From the first shot of Angélique applying for a  job at her local chocolate factory, the green coat is a promise. Colour of hope and regeneration, the coat symbolises both her instincts to blend in her surroundings and her desire to escape her shyness. It stands for her refusal to be acknowledged as the best chocolate maker in her city for fear it would block her creativity and her working on her emotional issues by going to an emotional people support group.

Often considered as bad luck by actors and dressmakers, psychologists hold green as a colour suggesting the need for fulfillment and self-confidence. Both are characteristics of Angelique’s psyche she’s highly aware of, even singing about them in a self-affirming song: “With every step I’m more certain/Everything will be all right/I’m convinced the world belongs to me/They’ll acknowledge so because I’m self-confident after all”.

The coat also contributes to anchoring the film in an alternative, timeless, location-less reality. In his commentaries, director Jean-Pierre Améris explains he wanted to create a Romantics world of its own, not dissimilar from Amélie Poulain’s quirkiness. In a season-spanning trench coat shape and pastel hue, the coat exemplifies the film’s entire aesthetics.

Posted at 9:01am and tagged with: Classy film,.

A universal tale of finding yourself with Jungian traits and multiple variants worldwide, the Brothers Grimm’s Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs has been re-imagined by Hollywood twice over the past six months: Mirror Mirror and Snow White and the Huntsman. With its “Miroir, Miroir” email sent early July, Chanel is keeping with the trend and banking on how the story echoes in ourselves to increase opening rates.

The entire email copy references fairy tales. The subject line refers to a (likely incorrect, depending on the translation) Snow White quote so engraved in popular culture finishing it is not necessary for the recipient to know this email is about beauty. The call to action invites the customer to go through the mirror, a possible reference to Alice in Wonderland, another tale with a looking-glass at its heart. The email ultimately links to a short film teasing the upcoming Rouge Allure lipstick line, “lips red as blood” being one of Snow White’s three key beauty attributes.

The film, where “crystals become makeup and reveal kaleidoscopic beauty”, is more science fiction than fairy tale, India-influenced rather than set in the German forest. According to Style.com, inspired by the “something Indian” in the new lipstick, Chanel creative director of makeup Peter Philips looked at Karl Lagerfeld’s Paris-Bombay and “a specific mirror-embellished coat” to direct the short. India is a popular inspiration for beauty brands at the moment: Clarins, Boucheron and NARS have all released wide-reaching lines rooted in the subcontinent. Yet the Chanel email copy follows the decidedly Western angle of Snow White.

Pictures: Top picture, Miroir miroir, Chanel email July 2012; Photos 2 and 3: Julia Roberts as the Evil Queen in Mirror Mirror, Relativity Media 2012; Photos 4 to 7: Charlize Theron as the Evil Queen and the mirror in Snow White and the Huntsman, Universal Pictures 2012

Posted at 8:35pm and tagged with: Brand communication, Classy film, beauty, chanel, email marketing, karl lagerfeld,.

This morning, I bought a terrier graphic cotton t-shirt because I had seen it on Emma Stone and liked it. I even liked the way she styled it so much I’m planning to pretty much reproduce her whole outfit. Considering the acknowledged influence of celebrity dressing, this isn’t exactly breaking behaviour, yet it is for me. The bright patent leather corset belt I used to accessorise every single navy and stripy dress with has been my drawer’s favourite every since Cheryl Cole wore it.

Yet for some reason, my reaction to what Emma Stone wears is different. Like most people, I first discovered her two years ago in Easy A, my top “film I wish I had seen as a teen”, and I have since watched every film she’s featured in. Not only does she sell me movie tickets, she also sells me magazines, UK Vogue, US Vogue and Teen Vogue this month which, considering the only publications I buy these days are Foreign Affairs, Monocle and the Harvard Business Review, is quite something. I find her a very talented actress, like the sense of humour and wit she displays during interviews and like her collaboration with stylist Petra Flannery. Although she’s 14 centimetres taller than me, I live under the delusion that what she wears would suit me too, a delusion strengthened by the fact her default outfit in street style pictures seems to be close to my favourite jacket-top-skinny jeans. So that’s how Emma Stone sold me a t-shirt, and got my eyes on a few more she wore during The Amazing Spider-Man promotional tour.

Posted at 3:21pm and tagged with: Brand communication, Classy film, Vogue, celebrity dressing,.

Ten reasons why the video of Pixar almost deleting Toy Story 2 resonates with all of us

A video of “How Pixar almost deleted Toy Story 2” due to an ill use of rm -r -f * has been making the tech blogs rounds this week. The (over?) dramatisation of the episode resonates with us all because we all use computers, we’re all familiar with the Toy Story trilogy and we’ve all made mistakes we never thought we’d overcome. Like Toy Story talking to our nostalgia and childhood memories, this video is universal because:

1 - It takes you behind the scenes of one of the most successful animation trilogy in history. Where you learn that they used Linux, had a single back-up they never checked and that “the master copies of characters, sets, animation, etc” were saved in databases “the frames were computed from”.

2 - It’s a big company owning up to its mistake. We’re Pixar, and we make great movies, but sometimes we f**k up like everyone else, because no matter how technologically advanced we are, there still is a human element to our work. And humans make mistakes, but they also solve them.

3- It’s a tale of a new mum saving the day because she worked from home. Mike Masnick at Techdirt.com questions the legality of Galyn Susman’s home back-up, arguing that ” you would have to imagine that at a place like Pixar, there were significant concerns about things “getting out,” and so the policy likely wouldn’t have looked all that kindly on copies being used on home computers.” Or you can see it as a positive story, showing that companies really have nothing to lose in accommodating new mums’ wishes for flexible schedules.

4 - It reminds us why back-ups, especially the most unusual ones, matter. The single, never checked back-up seems farfetched for something as big as Toy Story 2, though not impossible. Buy that second external hard-drive/cloud space now.

5 - It’s a story anyone who works in IT can identify with, and which resonates with anyone who’s lost, or nearly lost, important work. Whether it was your master’s dissertation, the kid’s birthday pictures or Toy Story 2, we’ve all been screwed by over-reliance on technology at one point or another.

6 - It makes us feel smug. You and I losing documents due to a computer fiasco is one thing. A multi-billion dollar company doing the same is another entirely.

7 - It shows you can rebound from your mistakes, no matter how big, if you can solve them and learn from them. The film did come out in 1999 and has so far made nearly 246 million dollars (2.7 times its budget), Jacob became CTO of Pixar before founding Toy Talk and Susman is now producer for Pixar. Craig L. Good, camera artist at Pixar, answered on Quora that “many changes have been made, obviously including a killer backup system”.

8 - It doesn’t involve any finger pointing. No matter how tempting it might have been, especially at the time, the video doesn’t name the person whose rm * use started it all, nor does it specify what happened to that “clown”. Did he come out with his mistake himself? Did the logs identify him? Did he get fired?

9 - It shows everything gets better and more epic with the gloss of time and reminds us all of the importance of storytelling: they don’t focus on the disaster or linger on the stress and anxiety, they focus on how they solved the problem. “99% true… As far as we recall!” it says at the end of the video.

10 - It makes Toy Story 2, not the best episode of the Toy Story trilogy, more iconic: it’s the movie which could have not happened, or which could have been delivered really late. It was saved in an epic manner not unlike Woody’s own adventures. This video is Toy Story 1.5.

Posted at 3:15pm and tagged with: Classy film, management,.

Delicacy, La Délicatesse, the disappointing French movie adaptation of a sweet French novel is out in the UK. Whereas French reviews last December had been enthusiastic to lukewarm, American and British critics are reviewing the film for what it really is: a pretentious movie failed by its writer, director and actors which can’t decide between romantic comedy and drama.

French reviewers found many redeeming qualities to the film. Thomas Sotinel at Le Monde wrote that it redefined the romantic comedy genre, Guillemette Odicino at the high brow weekly Telerama was enthused by the film’s take on love and how it proves wrong the say “you deserve better” whereas Olivier Delcroix from daily Le Figaro fell for the Audrey Tautou-François Damiens chemistry.

We must have been watching very different features. While French critics were watching a film “light as a stolen kiss” (20 Minutes), I was watching one of the most disappointing French film of the year, with a typecast Tautou playing yet another take on her Amélie character as Nathalie, a thirty-something Parisian woman  whose cliché romance is interrupted by a car accident. Nathalie throws herself into work and falls for the most insignificant and ugliest man in her company, Markus (Damiens).

As a novel, written by David Foenkinos, the story made for a good and cute read. Words can describe the minutiae of daily life, can find the right formula to reduce human experience down to a single person. Foenkinos failed to translate his unique tone into film format.

American and British reviewers, lead by The Hollywood Reporter, called him on his inability to adapt his own story. “muted French romance” where “sparks do not fly”. For Neil Genzlinger at the New York Times, “Tautou’s gamineness — gaminality? gaminocity? — is about all that her new film, “Delicacy,” has going for it”. Robbie Collin writes in the Daily Telegraph that it doesn’t offer “even a slightly original spin on that clapped-out beauty-meets-beast premise”. The Daily Mail, calls it “an insubstantial romcom” which “does what it says on the tin”. Specialist magazine Little White Lies sees it as a “pastry flake-thin exploration of bereavement, emotional recovery and office politics” which “takes far too long to say very little about life and love”.

Why this difference between French and British reviews? How can French critics find sweet, realistic and well-acted a film British critics think boring and without originality or chemistry?  La Délicatesse suffers from the issues Donald Morrison takes against French cinema in The Death of French Culture: “intellectual pretensions, a lack of action, and a focus on relationships instead of on social and political concern”. The difference in liking is encoded in the cultural divide between French and English-speaking critics and revealing of what each group looks for in a film.

Morrison, Donald The Death of French Culture (Polity Press, 2010) p.37

Posted at 3:59pm and tagged with: Classy film, france,.