It's OK for intellectual feminists to like fashion

Blog title from Hadley Freeman's book The Meaning of Sunglasses : "Prada styles itself as the label it's OK for intellectual feminists to like".

The author is a bilingual fashion editor, writer and translator with a serious blog, cinema and magazine habit.

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Email: fashionmemex(at)gmail.com

Michelle Williams & Louis Vuitton: the predictable past and future of their relationship.

Brands don’t just select the face of their next season or accessory campaign based on her upcoming films, paparazzi popularity and ability to trend on social media.

They look for a name which is both unexpected enough to gather press interest and sufficiently linked to the house so that the collaboration makes sense. The talent needs to be part of the brand’s family, an impression reinforced while the campaign is on every city wall and magazine page by careful seeding of key products. 

Michelle Williamsannounced as the face of the W and Capucines handbags for the Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2013 campaign has slowly built her relationship with the brand. She wore its clothes in fashion editorials, particularly that Autumn/Winter 2011 collar, and on the red carpet, including at the Oscars.

She should be spotted around town in the coming weeks carrying a monogrammed bag at the very least, will probably offer Louis Vuitton some red carpet moments and magazine covers, even though Suite Française, her next film, isn’t scheduled for release until 2014, by which time we will all have moved on to Spring/Summer 2014. And she will likely attend the Vuitton show at Paris Fashion Week in late September. There could even be some new handbag line launched, à la Sofia Coppola. For this is the predictable cycle any actress goes through for the brand she represents. 

Posted at 10:26am and tagged with: which, editorial,.

Strawberry fashion

  1. Photographer: Bruno Dayan
  2. Harper’s Bazaar Indonesia
  3. Chanel Iman in a French publication
  4. Vogue UK, September 1974, Norman Parkinson
  5. Anna Dello Russo wearing a strawberry-print dress from the Yves Saint Laurent S/S10 collection
  6. Lula magazine issue 10, March 2010, Kim Noorda as strawberry shortcake
  7. Nico with strawberry by Mark Shaw
  8. Kate Moss in Alexander McQueen by Wolfgang Tillmans, 1996
  9. The inspiration…

Posted at 7:59pm and tagged with: photography, strawberry, editorial, which,.

"La Déca Danse", a Mario Testino-Carine Roitfeld collaboration in the May 2010 issue of Paris Vogue to celebrate the anniversary of the Serge Gainsbourg-Jane Birkin La Décadanse song, is one of my favourite fashion shoots.

Likely inspired by a 1978 Helmut Newton photo of the couple, the editorial features Daria Werbowy and Francesco Vezzoli. It earned me a massive dressing down in the Tube one afternoon by a woman who told me I should really be ashamed to read such literature in public transports. With Carine Roitfeld, you read Vogue and people thought it was Playboy.

Posted at 8:04am and tagged with: Vogue, carine roitfeld, photography, editorial,.

It’s time to say goodbye to Autumn/Winter 2011. Frida Giannini’s collection for Gucci was one of her strongest for the brand so far and has featured in multiple editorials and graced many magazine covers. I’ll miss the 1970s vibe, rich hues, strong silhouette and golden Hollywood inspiration but most of all, I’ll miss the wide brimmed felt hats.

The Gucci Show

Show fittings from Vogue.it

Vogue Italia cover

Vogue Spain; Model Natasha Poly, Photographer Mariano Vivanco

Vogue Greece cover

Posted at 10:00am and tagged with: Gucci, photography, which, editorial, magazine,.

  • "Toffs and toughs", 1937
  • "Nun Head" Pop Magazine, Fall Winter 2008; Photographer. Missy Rayder
  • Gossip Girl Season 1
  • St Trinian’s, 2007; Costume design Rebecca Hale and Penny Rose
  • One of the four original St Trinian’s movies, 1950s
  • Never Let me Go, 2010; Costume design Rachael Fleming and Steven Noble
  • Cracks, 2009; Costume design Alison Byrne
  • Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix, 2007; Costume design Jany Temime
  • Tulalip Indian School, circa 1912
  • Claudine à l’Ecole, 1937
  • Vogue Italia, August 1997; Photographer: Ellen von Unwerth
  • "La Mauvaise Education" Numéro, June/July 2010; Photographer: Greg Kadal, Model: Miranda Kerr Source: Sassi Sam
  • Vogue Korea
  • "Stile Collegiale" Vogue Italia, 1990s; Photographer: Josh Van Gelder, Model: Vanessa McCulloch Source: Vogue UK
  • Mila Kunis Glamour UK, September 2011
  • Jean-Charles de Castelbajac show, 2008
  • "Like a Rolling Stone" Vogue China, July 2010; Photographer: Max Vudukul, Model: Georgia May Jagger Source: Fashion gone Rogue
  • Vogue, 1950s
  • And the song which began this theme: Fontenay-aux-Rose, Maxime Le Forestier




Posted at 12:00am and tagged with: Classy film, editorial, which, gossip girl, Vogue,.

Credits: Agent Provocateur, We Heart It, Behance, Alice au Pays des Merveilles by Ann Demeulemeester,

Films: Harry Potter,The Lodger, Penelope, The Thomas Crown Affair

Posted at 11:02am and tagged with: Classy film, editorial, which,.

Best Wishes for 2011, Meilleurs Voeux pour 2011

Nuits Fauves, Paris Vogue August 2008 - Photograph Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, Stylist Emmanuelle Alt, Model Kate Moss

Noctambule, Paris Vogue May 2007 - Photograph Terry Richardson, Stylist Emmanuelle Alt, Model Daria Werbowy

Put on a Happy Face, Paris Vogue September 2009 - Photograph Bruce Weber, Stylist Carine Roitfeld

Happily Ever After, US Vogue November 2010 - Photograph Mario Testino, Stylist Tonne Goodman, Model Anne Hathaway

Posted at 7:57pm and tagged with: Kate Moss, Vogue, Vogue Paris, editorial,.

Two years apart, Carine Roitfeld and Anne-Marie Curtis styled so-called wardrobe staples (LBD, trench coat, smoking suit etc) for Vogue Paris and ELLE UK. Each editorial marked a special fashion occasion: Roitfeld’s was for the 20th anniversary of Maison Martin Margiela, Curtis’ for ELLE's 25th birthday.

The Trench: Burberry London vs Burberry Prorsum

The white shirt: Yves Saint Laurent Homme vs Giorgio Armani

The handbag: Chanel vs Hermès

The court: Giuseppe Zanotti and Brian Atwood vs Manolo Blahnik

Vogue Paris Scans from Les scans de Diorette; ELLE scans from FashionGoneRogue

Le Culte de l’Impersonnalité

Vogue Paris October 2008

Photographs Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin

Styling Carine Roitfeld

The Word Girl

ELLE UK October 2010

Photograph David Vasiljevic

Styling Anne-Marie Curtis

Posted at 8:30am and tagged with: Vogue, elle uk, carine roitfeld, editorial,.

Remember that September Issue scene where Anna Wintour tells Elissa Santisi her styling is always the same?

Elissa: I was thinking maybe it’s kind of body conscious for clothes. Then at one point I thought maybe she could be sort of bionic. […]

Anna: It’s quite one-dimensional. But, also, the girls always look the same, Elissa. The way they’re dressed, it’s always the same. Somehow, the picture’s always the same. It’s usually the same minimal approach. I mean it’s what you are, I know. And the girls always tend to have straight hair. […] So it would be great if we could break out.

Well break out she did with her “Monsters, Inc.” editorial in this year’s September issue. This is the kind of shoot I expect from Pop rather than Vogue. Santisi teamed up with performance artist Nick Cave to introduce the season’s new accessories as well as fur, but not as Vogue does it. The result is colourful and crazy, without a bionic woman or straight hair in sight.

On a side note, the scene quoted seems odd to me. Santisi has been styling for quite a while. It is unlikely that Wintour realised her styling was a reflection of her personal style just as RJ Cutler was filming.

All scans from The Fashion Spot user IAmLordZen

Posted at 10:39am and tagged with: Vogue, The September Issue, editorial, Anna Wintour,.